Since about a month back my life has been pretty sweet. I'm in Geyik bayiri, Turkey. Climbing of course, but also working in the kitchen at the Josito campsite in return for food and accomondation.
Just before Chritsmas I injured my finger and due to this I did not climb at all until the beginning of February. When starting again, I could at first only do very easy moves on jugs and when two friends told me about going to Turkey to ropeclimb, they caught my interest. I thought of it as an opportunity to try something new since ropeclimbing should be more gentle on the finger.
Every other day I'm off from work and those I spend desperately trying
to learn how to get along with the limestone tufa's. So far I have not
been very succesfull. It's almost like doing a new sport too me as I
have not been doing much ropeclimbing before. At least not compared to
how much I have bouldered. Also it's my first time climbing on limestone
which sure takes some getting used to. At first I was super-frustrated
and felt completely lost on whatever climb I got on. Then I realized
that I had to change my approach towards it all. I lowered my ambitions,
started looking at every climb as training and now I'm trying to do as
many routes as I can, regardless of style or difficulty. It has made it
all much more enjoyable and I'm slowly adapting to the climbingstyle.
Hugo, one of the local dogs chilling at the campsite.
I'm planning to stick around for a while longer, before returning to
Sweden to spend my summer working as usual. I'm looking forward to keep
working on my endurance and that hopefully summer in Sweden will allow
for me to use it on the routes around where I live.
From what I hear, weather in Font has been great this winter. Unlike last year when I was there, dragging my bad karma to the forrest. However, despite the fact that I did far from as much climbing as I would have wanted to, I still have'nt used all the footage I gathered during that time. While sat thinking back of last winter, I came to think of these bits of unused footage and decided to try making the most of (some of) them. Hope you enjoy what I did!
Featured problems: Vague Patatras 8A Rocher Saint-Germain Les Conquistadores direct 7B+ Rocher Gréau Vandale gauche 7A+ Rocher Cailleau
Climber in video:
Few climbers I've met are bursting with such passion and energy at the rocks,
as Said. Just the fact that he climbs more than hundred routes 8a and
above every year, I think speaks for itself. Last week, while paying
a short visit in his old hometown, he spent an afternoon at Hyltebergenrepeating
his training-circuit from back in the day. A bunch of sevens and a
couple of eights, in between sushi in the sun and dinner at his mom's
place, is a pace one can only dream of keeping up with.
First weekend of February, I visited Finland and Helsinki for the first time. A city that lived up to everything I ever it imagined it would be, in terms of grey, cold and snowy. What I did not expect however, where all the great indoor climbing-facilities there is to be found. I was invited by my two friends Henna and Jarmo to attend the opening of the latest addition, their new bouldering-gym Boulderkeskus Isatis.
I had not been climbing since before Christmas due to finger injury, and that barely changed over the weekend. Not being able to climb so much, did however not really spoil my trip since I got to meet both old freinds aswell as new acquaintances. Also, since Jarmo is something of a child caught in a grown mans body and really appreciate toys, there where TONS of other things to keep me occupied. Such as pinball machines, videogames and a pooltable. Along with massages, aromatheraphy, yoga- and pilates-classes, this makes for a place where I could easily hang out not only on the days when I'm training. Although, the main reason to why I would be visting Isatis is still the crazy walls that Jarmo designed. The place offers a bit of everything in terms of wall-angles and shapes and from the looks of it, I think it's a great gym for training. Thanks again, Jarmo and Henna for having me!
Checking the results for the final.
Invited pro-climber Rustam Gelmanov on the first problem in the final of the opening compeititon.